Marjorie’s Topical Makeup Choices and Advice

Makeup Remover Sunscreen Makeup Brushes Liquid Foundation Makeup Finishing Powder Mascara Eyelash Growth Products Eyelash Curler Blush

Eye shadow Concealer Lip liners Lip Gloss Lipstick Lip Plumper Eyeliner Eyebrow Pencil

Makeup Remover

Before I get into my favorite makeup offerings and advice, I’ll address taking makeup off and protecting skin with sunscreen. 

I’m very concerned about the type of products I use on my skin, especially around the eyes.  My very favorite product that I have used for many years to remove makeup is DHC Deep Cleansing Oil Facial Cleanser.  This is an olive oil based product that is soluble and formulated especially for removing makeup in a healthy manner.  A 6.7 fl. oz container will likely last a person with normal use from 8-12 months, and it’s very affordable.  Go to www.dhccare.com to order.  If you mention my own personal customer number 760625 you will receive a 10% discount off your first order, regardless of the number of items you order; this offer is not limited to just the Deep Cleansing Oil Facial Cleanser.

Sunscreen

My choice for this very important skin protection product is Procyte Ti-Silc GT.  This is a 60 SPF UVA/UVB broad spectrum product that contains green tea as an antioxidant. It’s water proof for 80 minutes and contains a slight tint so there’s no chalky appearance that comes along with some sunscreen products.  I wear it daily.  I was first turned on to this product at a Dermatologist’s office.  After being sold on it, a physician sponsored me with Procyte so that I can carry it for my own clients.  If you wish to save shipping costs, contact me at 408-646-5723 and you can pick it up at my studio in Santa Clara, California or Renton, Washington.

Now on to my favorite makeup choices

Estee Lauder, Mac, Origins, Bobbie Brown, Lancôme, Laura Mercier, Chanel, Shiseido, Christian Dior, Prescriptives  (department store brands,) and a multitude of selections at drug and discount stores, just to name a few, all want your topical makeup business and have a huge inventory of choices to consider. 

The topical makeup industry generates billions of dollars a year from people who depend on their products to feel more confident about themselves. Permanent cosmetics, which of course I am a proponent of, can ease the need for application of topical makeup and the morning drudgery of looking in the mirror with that cup of coffee companion and wishing you didn’t have to do much of anything but wash your face, dress, and get on with the day.  Ah... it can be that easy with permanent cosmetics, but if you don’t have permanent cosmetics, the down side is that topical makeup requires application and maintenance throughout the day.

One of my current clients came to me out of sheer embarrassment.  She was working out at her health club and apparently had, in the course of a good workout, wiped off one of her eyebrows.  Finally a friendly person advised her she was exposing her face to others with just one eyebrow on, the other smudged beyond design recognition.  She was devastated.  It was then she made the decision to purse permanent cosmetics.  She was done, and according to her, it was one of her best decisions regarding her appearance.

With that said, permanent cosmetics can’t cover all the bases, so to speak.  Even women such as me, and my customers who have eyebrow, eyeliner, and lip procedures still sometimes find the desire to apply certain types of makeup, in fact it is to our advantage at times to enhance permanent cosmetic procedures to provide a variety of appearances from the natural “clean scrubbed face” look to the more dramatic evening or special occasion use. 

 I for one enjoy variety.  Whether enhancing permanent cosmetics for variation, or possibly for one reason or another you are not a good candidate for all permanent cosmetic procedures, I’ll share my favorites with you.  The makeup artists at the department store counters can guide you along as well (take care when experimenting in the store with makeup, the sanitary conditions can be questionable,) but here are my “picks” as a more mature woman who is traditionally a “minimalist.”

Makeup Brushes

The tools of any trade vary greatly in cost and you have to be choosy about the materials makeup brushes are made of if you want the best finish to your topical makeup application. Mac brushes are my pick for department store selections (Nordstrom) and Jane Iredale has good brushes as well, but can only be purchased through salons, spa’s or medical offices (many cosmetic surgeons carry this line of makeup because of its pure pigment properties desirable for the skin after surgery or laser skin resurfacing.)  

I particularly like the Jane Iredale “Dome, White Fan, Handi, and Eye Shader” brushes.  You can go to her website www.janeiredale.com and put in your zip code for a supplier closest to you.  I feel quality is important when choosing brushes.  It really does affect how the makeup appears on your face.  Jane Iredale makes a point of advising that no animals are killed to make their brushes, which is a requirement for me.

Both brands have a wide variety of brushes made from quality materials to meet every makeup application need.

Liquid Foundation Makeup

My pick is Estee Lauder Enlighten.  This low profile foundation has been around for years and withstood the test of time as products routinely come and go.  I was first referred to this makeup by a cosmetic surgeon who had performed laser skin resurfacing on my face.  My face was very red/pink for quite some time, and this makeup has more of a cool base, which offset the redness of my new complexion. The cooler foundation base also serves those who have rosacea well.  I appreciate the lightness of its consistency and the ease of which it flows on the face with little blending requirements.  It is not a heavy makeup that contains talc, an ingredient that can settle in character lines of our face and require refreshing as the day wears on.  

A makeup consultant at the department store counter can help with choosing the right color for your skin tone.  The only disadvantage to this is that the lighting is artificial and can be misleading.  I usually shop at Nordstrom for Enlighten as well as for other makeup if they carry what I am looking for because they are so generous about exchanges if you get home and the color isn’t what you thought it was in the store, the product does not perform, or it does not agree with your skin.  You may have to ask for Enlighten, as it’s becoming harder to find visible on the display stands.

Finishing Powder

Lancôme has a nice translucent loose powder called Ageless Minerale that leaves a very nice light finish without adding color to the face.  They recommend a special powder brush that I purchased, but have not decided if it was necessary or not.  I had several brushes that might have served the purpose, but if you don’t have any to choose from, it’s best to take their recommendation.  Cloth type powder puffs get dirty, accumulate bacteria, and usually cannot be easily or adequately washed.

Mascara

My eyeliner and mascara has always been very important to me.  Before I had permanent eyeliner applied, I was forever checking my eyes, dabbing off smudged color, and reapplying after any exercise or even after an outing on a hot day.  Now with my eyeliner permanently in place, my focus is on enhancing it with a bit of eye shadow (occasionally, I’m not a daily eye shadow person,) but most importantly, mascara. I feel dark eyelashes can beautifully enhance the intensity of eyeliner and the color of the eyes.

My pick is Lancôme Hypnose and L’Extreme.   I’ve always felt they had the market on good mascara.  It’s pricey compared to drug store brands, which are fine too but not all mascaras perform the same.  Cover Girl Lash Blast is a nice and good performing mascara that is available at the local drug stores.

When I’m in a hurry, I use Lancôme Hypnose alone.  This mascara is a great thickener of lashes, stays well, and doesn’t flake off during the day.  Although my lashes are more naturally straight, I find I do not have to curl my lashes when I use Hypnose.   When I have a bit more time because I have such non-existent eyelashes, I might put a second coat of Lancôme L’Extreme, which is lengthener mascara. 

There are also several products which can be used to “pre-treat” the eyelashes adding girth to the lash hair before using mascara.  One of these products is L'Oreal Volume Shocking 2-Step Volume Construction Mascara which can be purchased either on-line at a variety of sites, or at drug stores.  This is a double sided tube, one containing the lash treatment to add volume and girth and the other is the mascara.  I tried the mascara and was not pleased at all, but I’m very fond of the eyelash treatment aspect of this product. 

Eyelash Growth Products

There are many to choose from, some with known and stated side effects, some that work better than others.  Please call me at 408-646-5723 and we can discuss your options.  I’m currently in the testing phase of a new one that does not require a prescription.  I will be glad to discuss what’s available and what my personal experiences have been with a variety of these products. Over time, I’ve used Revitalash, Jan Marini, Double Lash and Brow, Latisse, MD Lash Factor, and am currently testing Hydropeptides. I’ll provide updates as testing progresses.

As a matter of dual use, the Double Lash and Brow product is a an inexpensive product (comparatively) that I feel keeps what little hair I have left in my eyebrow are healthy and in place.  If for no other reason (not expecting huge hair growth results) I put this product on my eyebrow hair.  It acts like a hair gel (it’s an ointment in composition) and keeps my eyebrow hair in place and I think it helps keep the hair healthy.  I’ve ordered it on-line inexpensively, but watch the shipping costs.  At times it is more than the product.  If you wish to save shipping costs, contact me at 408-646-5723 and you can pick it up at my studio in Santa Clara, California or Renton, Washington.

Eyelash Curler

I’ve used so many eyelash curlers I wish there was a turn-in program.  I’d be rich. I’ve finally settled on my choice.  Shu Uemura’s curler is by far the best considering the mushroom shape and silicone pad.  It can be purchased at Nordstrom’s and on-line at www.shuuemura-usa.com.

Blush

I think blush makeup is pretty easily satisfied by a variety of different brands.  I’ve used drug store brands and department store brands.  I haven’t noticed a great degree of quality differences, although I did take a liking to a particular color of Estee Lauder Blush Subtle Sheer, available in department stores, which I have stayed with for quite some time.  Before that I headed for the Mac counter for the huge variety of choices.  I don’t care for the cream texture blushes as a personal preference. They have a tendency to get messy in the container and melt in hot weather if you carry it in your purse for touchups.

Cheek stains must be put on carefully on very smooth skin so that the product doesn’t “grab” on dryer areas of the cheeks. I find when I was younger I could wear the more obvious blush and get away with it.  Now I prefer something more subtle.  Blush is not a procedure I recommend as a permanent cosmetic service so I’m a big believer in adding a bit of color to the cheeks with topical makeup only.

Eye Shadow

As a more mature person, I have to be very picky about eye shadow.  I don’t recommend eye shadow as a permanent cosmetic service so I don’t have it and am out there with the rest of you shopping for nice accent colors.  The formula has to be well balanced so it does not end up creasing along the top lid in the middle of the day.  I’ve gotten so spoiled with my permanent makeup that I really expect a lot from what little topical makeup I do wear.   Estee Lauder and Mac eye shadows, available in department stores, seem to suit me.  Of course I believe the formulation one wears successfully has a lot to do with the condition of their skin and selecting the right product.  

 If you are more mature, stay away from the frosty eye shadows.  Blue, although making a come back, usually looks best on younger (under 25,) pencil thin models in magazines that wear foot long false eyelashes.  For women who don’t fit this description, this color normally is not the greatest pick.  A mink or taupe color is nice for green and hazel eyes, plum for brown eyes, and a very subtle green (khaki) for blue eyes.  Actually taupe looks nice with about every eye color but sometimes a little more color is fun.  You want to contrast your eyes, not necessarily match them. Almay, available at drug stores, has a very nice trio package of eye shadow colors specifically formulated for a certain color of eyes, which is called out on the package. As an example:  Almay “trio for browns.”

For women who have eyelids that do not take well to the powdered eye shadow products, I’ve found a little trick that works well for me.  I use the Mac Impeccable Eyebrow Pencils in taupe and black (this is not a harsh black appearance) called Impeccable Brow Pencil.  The pencil is soft enough to be used as a shadow and it doesn’t settle in lid creases like some powder eye shadows do on more mature women’s eyelids. 

Brow bone white, off white, gold, and pink highlighters are also nice but again, typically the frosty formulations look best on the very young.  If you are more mature, look a matt finish so the highlighter appears smooth on your skin. 

Concealer

The tissue under the eyes is very fragile and the texture varies in condition and color. What must be avoided is a heavy appearance.  White and flesh tone pigments reflect light.  For this reason less is better when camouflaging dark circles under the eyes. Laura Mercier, available at Macys, has a nice product for this purpose that is a cream with some powder properties.  Just a little goes a long way and that is really what appears the most natural.

Lip liners

Because I have permanent lip color this is not something I use personally, however, I do use Bobbie Brown’s, available at Nordstrom, lip pencil for applying the template to my customer’s lips for tattooing.  I like it because it can be sharpened to a nice tip, is easily disinfected, and it has some reasonable staying power.  Their color “Red” although it sounds extreme, is really a good color.  For younger people who like a brown topical liner look, the “Cola” color would be a good color to consider. 

Unless you are trying to startle someone or expect them to focus on your lips alone, lip pencil color should be applied with minimum intensity and width only to provide a crisp appearance of the lip vermilion.  Less is more and unless you have permanent cosmetics, count on reapplying often during the day especially after eating or drinking.

Lip Gloss

Colored lip gloss is pretty but it is also a really tiresome makeup accessory if you are depending on it as a stand alone color, or if you do not have color in your natural lips.  I for one do not like the fruity flavors and a good majority of them are flavored. I have full lip permanent cosmetics so I just use a color-free emollient product to keep my lips moist.  Some lip moisteners that contain petroleum are somewhat addictive products.  The more you use, the more you feel the need to use it again. Although they feel very nice and for some people a product they enjoy, for non-addictive products, Burt’s Bee Balm or DHC Lip Cream (if you don’t have a problem with lanolin) are good selections.  DHC is the number one direct-mail skin care company in Japan. Burt’s Bee Balm can be purchased at drug stores.  DHC Lip Cream, although occasionally available at major shopping malls, is primarily an Internet product and you can order on their website at www.DHCcare.com.  If you mention my own personal customer number 760625 you will receive a 10% discount off your first order, regardless of the number of items you order; this offer is not limited to just the DHC Lip Cream.

 As for the tinted, flavored, lip glosses, in my opinion, I would doubt there is a huge quality issue to be concerned about.  Blistex Lip Tone (available at drug stores,) has a nice neutral tone, inexpensive lip balm you may want to try.

Lipstick

I have not worn lipstick for many years since my full lip color is on permanently, and I do feel there are too many choices for me to offer any suggestions other than to suggest looking for the ones that please you from the color perspective.  Lipstick on coffee cups and drinking glasses, eating utensils, and the tattle-tale signs it leaves on clothing if it comes in contact, is rather unsightly and of course the longer lasting the product, the less you have to pop into the powder room and freshen up.  Just remember that as a rule, the moister and shinny (glosses or high shine) the lipstick finish, the shorter-term life it has on your lips.  However, some of the long wear lipsticks are reported to leave the lips very dry.

If you have good color in your lips, for comfort purposes, you may want to consider regular lipsticks (not long wear) because they will hold longer since your lips provide the color base and you will get more mileage plus comfort (not drying) from these lip stick products. When I did wear lipstick, and not concerned about an “all day” factor, I was drawn to Christian Dior or Mac colors.  

Now for the all day lip color products.  Many women of color may not good candidates for permanent cosmetic lip color because of the variegated (two tone) color in their natural lip coloring and because of the existing melanin, tattooing can cause hyperpigmentation (a darkening) result. A consultation with the permanent cosmetic technician of choice is recommended to determine candidacy.  As a result, the long-wear lipstick becomes more important.  I’ve tried many just for the purposes of testing these products, not all that are available, but many.

 My favorite long-wear topical lip color product to date is CoverGirl OutLast.  It used to be MaxFactor but this product is no longer available in stores and although they kept the same color references on-line, the product I ordered for my clients who were not good candidates for cosmetic lip tattooing was not the same color as before so I moved on.

CoverGirl OutLast is an inexpensive, available at most drug stores, lip color treatment that I’ve found pleases many of my clients who are not good candidates for lip tattooing.  The color “Natural” number 621 is one I recommend for an everyday look. Yes, like many of the all day lip products, some may find it drying.  You won’t know if this applies to you until you try it.  The only drawback to the packaging (which affects the color appearance) is that the colors inside are sometimes different from what you see through the translucent container.  Be sure and keep your receipt in case what you see is not what you get and you don’t like the color as it appears on your lips.   

Lip Plumper

I have to confess to not having extensive experience with lip plumper products; there are so many to choose from.  I think many of these products work on an “irritant” basis and I don’t like being irritated.  I have, however, been using a product, Brenda Christian Phattenup for reduction of lines around my mouth which is also advertised as a lip plumper product.  I think this new product is going to be a winner.  Here’s what they advertise:

• Rebuilds your own natural collagen for long-term enhancement of the volume of your ups up to 300%
• Increases lip moisture levels up to 50% with continued use
• Reduced lines around the lips and lip furrows up to 30%
• Immediately experience a plumping, extreme smoothing action of the lines surrounding the lips with no irritation or burning.

I now carry this product in my studio. If you wish to save shipping costs, contact me at 408-646-5723 and you can pick it up at my studio in Santa Clara, California or Renton, Washington.  Or, you can order this product directly at www.Brendachristian.com.  The product comes in a small container (0.17oz) and at first I felt like it would be expensive to continue, but I’ve used it nightly now for over a month and a little goes a very long way. I’ve barely put a dint in the original amount received.

Eyeliner

I originally thought of just leaving this section out but thought that might look obviously absent.  I have no recent experience to share with you for topical eyeliner. My eyeliner has been tattooed on for years so I never use it, and there are so many products out there to choose from. As a result, I would be reluctant to recommend one or the other without some additional experience worth sharing.  I don’t think the topical makeup cosmetic manufacturers have ever found a perfect formulation for long lasting eyeliner.  It all (according to my clients who come in for eyeliner) seems to wear off during the day, smudge or require maintenance.  Lack of long staying topical eyeliner is one of the reasons my clients elect for permanent eyeliner. 

Although I do not wear topical makeup eyeliner, for fun, occasionally I do enhance my permanent eyeliner with L’Oreal Le Kohl pencil, available at drug stores, for smooth defining eyeliner that stays in place for a reasonable (considering) length of time.  I place it directly above my permanent liner for color and width variation. People without permanent eyeliner could use it as an eyeliner product. It’s a good pencil, stays on reasonably well, and comes in a nice variety of standard and designer colors.  The same principles of eyeliner can apply as those for eye shadows. You don’t always have to go the traditional route with these products and a contrast with your eye color can appear very chic.

It’s hard to replace the long-term convenience benefits of cosmetic tattooed eyeliner that can be as minimal as an eyelash enhancement, or as obvious as topically applied eyeliner.

Eyebrow Pencil

My eyebrows are tattooed, so again, I don’t use this product for myself, but for designing eyebrows on my clients, or for those clients who are not good medical candidates for tattooing, my very favorite pencil is Brenda Christian’s Universal Brow Pencil. This pencil is very pricey ($18.00 and up depending on where you purchase it,) and is offered on the Internet including on the Brenda Christian website www.brendachristian.com. This pencil is just great for designing templates for my clients to approve before eyebrow tattooing.  It can be sharpened to a point, it does not contain a lot of wax and the universal color is truly “universal” as it looks great on a variety of skin tones.  

If you choose to continue to take the time and energy to draw on your eyebrows every day (which is hard for me to image,) this is the pencil to consider.  It might be just a bit too light for some darker skin tones but it suits the bill for most Fitzpatrick types I-IV.  For people with darker skin, try the Mac Impeccable Eyebrow Pencil.  I personally use it as eye shadow, but feel confident it would work equally as nicely for the purpose intended (eyebrows.)  

I typically have the Brenda Christian Universal Brow Pencil on hand at my studio.  I use it daily to draw on my client’s eyebrows prior to tattooing and provide it in my student’s product kits.  You may wish to save shipping costs and contact me to arrange to purchase it in my Santa Clara, California or Renton, Washington offices.  Contact me on my cell phone at 408-646-5723 if you want to pick up this product locally.

As the rule goes, instead of trying to match the hair on your head (and this rule applies for permanent cosmetics as well, with client approval,) in the absence of eyebrow hair, which commonly influences the intensity of eyebrow pencil color, eyebrow color for blondes should be one to two shades darker than their hair color, and eyebrow color for brunettes should be one to two shades lighter.  The whole idea is to provide harmonic contrast.  Don’t step back into the 60’s when women all wore beige pant suites, carried a beige purse, and accessorized with beige earrings and shoes.  Talk about blah.  We all faded into the background.  If you are considering permanent cosmetic eyebrows, don’t worry about the color of your hair.

The selection of color for permanent eyebrows is also based on your skin tone and if you have hair in your eyebrow area, that hair color must be taken into consideration.  I ask the eyebrow client to bring her pencil or powder she is accustomed to applying in with her to the appointment.  I can then translate the color she is accustomed to using to pigment color. It is easy to match to a pigment color that will ultimately achieve a favorable healed result.

Eyebrow pencil colors that I feel are not flattering are gray, black, and some auburn colors.  Although a variety of auburn colors are tempered to reddish brown (selectively nice,) other more striking formulations are a brown red that can appear harsh on some skin tone types.  These colors can appear severe and unnatural.

Personally, I believe I have changed more lives with the application of permanent eyebrows than any other procedure I perform.  Women are slaves to drawn-on eyebrows; they take time to put on, and it seems to be a constant worry keeping them on.  The fun part is that even if you are prone to changing your hair color, your permanent eyebrows can always quickly be enhanced (if you choose) with a variety of topical makeup colors.  Just takes a second or two when the eyebrow pattern is on permanently.  No more concern or embarrassment during health club workouts, camping, swimming or guests who arrive before your “face” is on.  Forget that.  Women have come too far to spend their time in front of a mirror.  We have better and more important things to do.

End of topical makeup choices and advice ~~

As I stated on another page of my site, I think permanent cosmetics should be worn as lingerie.  Women not only need to know they always look nice and colorful without makeup which the permanent cosmetic service provides, but on the other hand, many also enjoy the variety of support color that the topical makeup industry offers.

There are so many cosmetic companies available to pick and choose from, it would be impossible to profile them all.  If you are uncertain about what would look best on you, shop around for a good objective makeup artist, one who can represent many lines and help you through the maze of selections.  Price is not always an indicator of a good, better, and best makeup.  There are many drug and discount store brands that serve the purpose well, especially for those who enjoy having a lot to choose from at home or are uncertain if a particular color would look nice.  Buy it inexpensively and if you fall in love with the color but don’t like the quality, take the inexpensive product to a department store and ask for assistance in matching the color to a better brand of cosmetics.  There are lots of tricks to the trade.

Watch the ingredients in your products.  Sometimes it is a maze trying to decipher what is in something as simple as mascara or lipstick.  As a for instance, I was shocked to find out that in 2004 the FDA banned the use of cow brains in some lipstick products.  Also you must be aware of any products which may cause an allergic reaction such as lanolin and preservatives included in products to keep them fresher longer.  A combination of knowing what you are sensitive to, what textures of makeup you like better than others, what colors are right for your skin tone and what your budget will allow all ultimately lead you to one brand or another.  Professional makeup artists at department stores are more likely to be able to help you with the translation of ingredients in makeup than are the people who work in several departments at drug stores. The burden ultimately falls on the buyer to investigate the products they use and to know any allergies they may have to specific ingredients to avoid a reaction.

As with any generic offering of advice regarding products that touch the skin, a disclaimer regarding the generalities of my makeup picks must be provided.  All products you decide to try whether my picks or otherwise, should be tested in small areas of the applicable area of the face as directed by the manufacturer before using on larger areas or on a continuous basis.  If you have a history of skin sensitivities, discuss ingredients you should avoid with your Dermatologist before proceeding.

I hope you enjoyed this section of my website and found some advice worth considering.  I’m always glad to speak to you personally, if you wish, about your permanent or topical makeup interests.  I’m glad to help and you can always e-mail me your questions or comments about this section of my website if you wish at facebydsgn@aol.com.  I’d love to hear from you.